It is now clear that the luxury sector has been going through a difficult period. What became equally clear from the latest round of runway shows is that menswear remains deeply caught up in that struggle. During
Milan Fashion Week (June 19–23), dedicated to men’s collections, brands attempted to narrow the gap with their womenswear lines. Prada returned to simplicity and functionality, embracing slimmer silhouettes; Dolce & Gabbana revisited its signature Sicilian heritage; Ralph Lauren balanced structure and softness through a dual vision of elegance. Yet despite these efforts, menswear continues to spin its wheels, trapped in a recurring loop and still searching for a direction it has yet to find.
Prada’s Clarity
Let’s be clear: many brands are trying to react to the current stagnation. They are experimenting, breaking away, and reconnecting with their roots. Prada is doing exactly that, turning choice into a methodology. For Spring/Summer 2027, Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada chose to focus rather than expand. They distilled garments down to their functional core, re-materializing them, rethinking them, and giving them new meaning. As a result, silhouettes become slimmer, categories are redefined, and the ordinary takes on greater significance.
It is a reactive, almost surgical gesture, expressed through leather suits worn directly against the skin, denim jackets, and sheer shirts. Prada removes every unnecessary element, stripping away accessories—with the exception of oversized belts reminiscent of the early 2000s and small pouches—and returns to the essence of dressing. In doing so, the brand takes the risk of overturning everything we have seen in recent seasons.
Menswear Running in Circles
Amid the chaos of a menswear industry still searching for its center of gravity, Dolce & Gabbana chooses the safest route—and perhaps the most predictable one: bringing Sicily back to the runway. No one would dare ask the founding duo to abandon the brand’s defining codes. Yet recently, what once felt like an exploration has increasingly become repetition. Still, the collection treats materials as if they were part of a living archive.
Hammered leathers, woven raffia, and canvases reinforced with leather inserts take center stage. Bags become small exercises in construction. Footwear revives traditional gestures through wool weaving techniques and reinterpreted Sicilian sandals. Prints evoke postcards, citrus fruits, and glimpses of Sicily. All of this is supported by tailoring executed in the old-school manner. Perhaps change is finally on the horizon.
Double Ralph Lauren
Elegant yet sporty, Ralph Lauren arrives in Milan with a double offering: two collections in one. Purple Label, the more classic line, tells the story of the brand’s heritage. Polo, by contrast, looks toward the present, injecting new energy into the mix. On the runway, linen suits, suede jackets, and boldly colorful sweaters—often casually tied around the neck—shared the spotlight. It is an American vision of dressing that continues to evolve for an increasingly international audience. Today, attention turns to Giorgio Armani’s collection, the first designed by Leo Dell’Orco.
Photos: Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and Ralph Lauren.
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